Christmas Markets - part 1 (Berlin and Frankfurt)

From the moment we decided to move to Europe for one year, we knew that we wanted to spend part of December exploring the beautiful Christmas markets situated in Germany and Austria. Dave planned the trip and so far we have not been disappointed! We are traveling for about 2 weeks and we’re splitting our stays between hotels and Air B&B’s. 

First Stop: Berlin, Hotel Melia. Arriving in Berlin, late Saturday afternoon, we were prepared for the cold, but by no means accustomed to it. It was about -1 degrees celsius. We flew from Pisa to Berlin, and then took a train to city center. The hotel was very accommodating and beautifully decorated for the Christmas season. This detailed gingerbread house was in the entry for the girls to ogle at while Dave checked us in. Instantly, we were put in the holiday spirit!

Our hotel being situated right near the Christmas market, we soon found that every restaurant was full to capacity, and had no seating without a reservation. Oops… we had two very hungry girls and a cold mama. Notice how Arya’s mood is captured in this photo with a chocolate Brandenburg gate! And later while waiting in line for the Christmas Market. 

This market had a one euro entry fee, but most are free. Thankfully, as soon as we entered the market, hot food and drink abounded! Bratwurst, pretzels, mulled wine, hot chocolate and we were set! Each market is filled with traditional german christmas ornaments, wood carvings, nativities, nutcrackers, jewelry and lots of food and sweets. Most of the booths repeat themselves, but each market tends to be a little bit different. 

Outside of the Christmas Markets, we also took some time to sightsee while in Berlin. We walked to the Reichstag building (the government building), saw the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie, and found part of the Berlin wall that was left standing.

Next to this wall was a free museum all about the Schutzstaffel (one of the largest and most powerful organizations in the Third Reich). It is situated on the spot where the party took up residence in a hotel leading up to and during WWII. Before this trip and during, we have had many conversations with the girls trying to explain the terrible injustices that took place here. Arya read a biography about Anne Frank a few weeks ago, that got us started, and while I viewed the many photos and exhibits in this museum, Dave and the girls played question and answer. One of the hardest things for me to see in those photos were pictures of women and men of the SS celebrating and hanging out between executions at the concentration camps. Smoking cigarettes and drinking beers, laughing and flirting in the midst of extreme horror. I have been to Dachau on previous European trips, and now putting the two viewpoints together completed a picture of utter sickness. The girls have not seen all the images, and some details have been spared, but I do believe that they understand what happened here seventy five years ago, and I pray that they will always choose love and not hate.

In the afternoon, we also walked through this holocaust monument, build in the city center. It is made up of cemented columns all different heights on a grid pattern. It covered a large park several football fields wide. As we entered, I found that as soon as one of the children turned one or two corners they were lost. It was a massive game of hide and seek in a labyrinth with endless exits. How soon fear gripped me, and I immediately understood the art of this monument. Losing my family in an instant, not knowing which way to turn, and not being able to see what was around the next corner. Being completely powerless.

Next up, a traditional german meal with live christmas carols by piano and strings. Then, more fun at the Christmas Markets. These markets had rides more like a Christmas carnival. There’s nothing like riding on swings when it’s freezing outside (insert cheesy smile here). Funny thing is, I don’t even think the girls noticed.

We loved exploring Berlin, and felt so comfortable in this big city once divided. We spent our last evening here surprising the girls with a night at the Berlin Ballet, seeing a very traditional interpretation of the Nutcracker. It was stunning! Dave knows this ballet well, as he takes his students to the SF production every year, and so was able to point out all the differences. The sets, dancing, and costumes were colorful and perfectly choreographed. The sheer numbers of artists on stage in perfect unison was outstanding, including a live orchestra and SA chorus.

We left from the central train station the next morning and took a four hour train to Frankfurt, our next stop. 

The train was clean, warm and very quiet. We all settled right in with books, movies, and games. 

In Frankfurt, we met up at the train station with Ini, our Air B&B host, and found our apartment just a few blocks from the market. For dinner? More bratwurst, gluhwein (mulled wine), and a few treats like kettle corn, candy apples, and cotton candy. Hey, it’s the holidays, right?!

On Day 2 in Frankfurt, we found an indoor miniature golf course that was created by a group of artists. It was a nice reprieve from the cold and definitely unlike any other golf we’d every played. Each hole had it’s own ball and clubs and was themed loosely around the home.  Check out the photos. These were difficult holes, therefore everyone got 8 chances before taking a 9 on the hole. The last hole with the loop, has two different tracks. You have to hold the strap with your foot when you putt, and then let it go once your ball passes so that the track can switch. It is all very creative. I think the most fun was standing on the dining room table!

Here are a few more photos from Frankfurt. 

Next stop Bamburg and Munich!